Detail View: The AMICA Library: Sash

One of the key elements of dress at the Mughal court was the patka, a sash or girdle tied around the waist with the ends hanging loose in front. The sash's end panels were usually decorated, since they were visible. Less elaborate decoration or even plain ground was used for the broad expanse of fabric in between, the area customarily gathered and hence concealed. To the sash were attached various accessories such as daggers and thumb rings. Many surviving sashes, particularly early ones, were woven of fine pashmina wool and had patterns incorporated into the weave. Others were stenciled, painted, and dyed, or embroidered like the present example. Here, the decoration, applied mostly in a chain stitch, is confined to a narrow border of blossoms and reciprocal vines that outlines the piece and to the end panels, where eight delicate identical flowers gently twist and sway. Both the use of flowers in profile and the colors (red, white, yellow, and mint green) hark back to the style made popular under Shah Jahan.